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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.